2010 in review

The stats helper monkeys at WordPress.com mulled over how this blog did in 2010, and here’s a high level summary of its overall blog health:

The Blog-Health-o-Meter™ reads This blog is doing awesome!.

Crunchy numbers

A Boeing 747-400 passenger jet can hold 416 passengers. This blog was viewed about 1,900 times in 2010. That’s about 5 full 747s.

In 2010, there were 42 new posts, growing the total archive of this blog to 84 posts. There were 120 pictures uploaded, taking up a total of 108mb. That’s about 2 pictures per week.

The busiest day of the year was May 7th with 38 views. The most popular post that day was Buenos Aires [2], Argentina.

Where did they come from?

The top referring sites in 2010 were fishnetsandfedoras.com, statistics.bestproceed.com, en.wordpress.com, healthfitnesstherapy.com, and student-loan-consilidation.com.

Some visitors came searching, mostly for intrepidnomad, intrepid nomad, tongariki, chiloe, and drawing of ancient rapa nui landscape.

Attractions in 2010

These are the posts and pages that got the most views in 2010.

1

Buenos Aires [2], Argentina May 2010

2

About July 2009
7 comments

3

Puerto Williams [3], Isla Navarino, Chile February 2010

4

Rapa Nui [2], Chile September 2010

5

El Chaltén[4], Argentina April 2010

Rapa Nui [12], Chile

My last day on Easter Island and also my last day of my enlightening journey through South America. I had left this day to explore the little township of Hanga Roa. My first stop was the daily market. I walked into the building and was surprised to see a three-in-one. A wet market selling mostly imported and fresh vegetables. In the centre a small eatery and on the opposite end and thriving local craft market. I noticed one-off the local dish, a sopophilla, a traditional Mapuche fried flat bread  sweetened with sugar. The atmosphere here was relaxed like most parts of local island life. I enjoyed seeing families with kids in tow haggling over prices of the fresh produce, the cling-clang of pots and coffee cups at the small but cheery eatery and Rapa Nuian song resonated from the craft shops. In the craft market, a huge array of artifacts and local craft were on display. This included items with feathers, wood carvings from ash trays to boat paddles, beads and shell ornaments, hand-made tapa mats made from plant fibres, printed fabrics with local motifs and the islands biggest spectacle, the Moai,  carved in wood and stone. An interesting find was the demonstration of the Kai Kai - the inter twined string that told the stories of the ancient Rapa Nuian culture accompanied with vocal songs.

On the main road, a couple , beside a parked pick up truck sold purple tapioca like tubers, white carrots and avocados together with corals. I wondered  where these corals originated from as the island’s surroundings did not support this types of life. On the street sidewalk,  three stylishly dressed ladies sat comfortably around a table outside a bar decorated with banana plants and ferns. A huge white poster hung behind them that accentuated their relaxed demeanor. Casual dressing is a norm here. Town life is laid back and I enjoyed just jay walking . Occasionally a car would pass by or have a nervous wait for a dog to pass. Soon I made my way to the Iglesia Hanga Roa [church]. The exterior was landscaped with calatheas, climbing allamandas, fuchsias, creepers, philodendron and the ground covered in ferns and grasses. A stone carving of a head and torso of a man sat on a block of stone against the wall. This was not a moai. Above the rows of pews, light shone brilliantly through stained glass. The motifs were interesting – a volcano with lava pouring out and dark clouds hung above; a fish, perhaps a whale holding a bowl of brown ball that resembles coconuts and on the opposite wall, floral and a bird motifs.  It was interesting to see that the people of Rapa Nui had not severed from their ancient history. A sort of animism intertwined with the new religion, Christianity. The evidence, a carved wooden statue of a bird man resembling Christ on the cross. This phenomenon is quite common in South America particularly is remote regions of the Andean range. 

It was a carnival of moai culture inside the Mercado Artesanal. All kind of souvenirs possible was either hanging on the shelves or on the wooden board that packed each shop to its brim. Wood and stone carving of moais, hats, T-shirts, tapa clothes and much more. The prices here seemed at little steep compared to the Feria Muncipal. I have a soft spot for wooden items and I exercised extreme restraint from purchasing one. There were a few books on display with the native Rongorongo pictorial writings. These “writings” were originally found on wooden objects with some sort of inscriptions. This was the now extinct language of the ancient Rapa Nui ancestors. Today, efforts are undergoing to attempt to decipher these, although only a few, with the hope to reveal the secrets into the islander’s past lives. There is no living native that speak this language anymore. I bought a cap with these unique writings embroidered on it as a reminder of this lost language. The shop keeper explained these Rongorongo  glyphs – frigate bird [birdman], fish, Makemake [the creator god]and few others.  

Later in the afternoon, I decided to go on a horse ride [20000 peso] up Maunga Terevaka, the highest point on the island together with Martha, Judith and Ophelie. I was nervous when I agreed to participate in this activity. I had not rode a horse before while the others had some experience. we organised it through Martha at the hostel. We were picked up at the hostel and driven to the east coast close to Ahu Akahanga. I had my first look at the horses inside a make shift coral. The sun shone brightly and was to a point of cooking my skin. Our guide, …………….., sized me up and after knowing my inexperience, decide to give me the safest horse. I hoped onto the saddle, readjusted the straps and buckled my shoe into the thick wooden stirrup. Now, my thoughts migrated  from nervous to panic rapidly but strangely excited of the prospect of my first horse ride. I spoke to myself to relax and be calm as I started to ride. It started with a gentle walk and soon became a wretches trot. My whole body shook up and down and my buttocks struggled to stay within the shiny saddle. I gripped the reins even tighter in my hands. Occasionally, ……………, would give my horse a slap urging it to move quicker. I did not like that at all.  I tried to straighten my legs to raise my buttock above the saddle. It was in vain as the straps were too long. After a while I became used to this motion. At one point, I nearly fell off my horse as the saddle became loose from all that jiggling motion. Finally,…………, put me at ease by tightening all the straps and ropes. It did help a little. The ride took me into the interior of the island. However, like most part of the island, the land was undulating , nearly treeless but green. There were no traffic as there were no roads. The climb uphill was gentle as well. It all seemed fine until………. decided to make me a cabalido, a local cowboy. He came along side and gave a whack on the rump of the horse. It immediately took off  uphill from a trot into a gallop. It was exhilarating and I loved the speed and the enthusiasm shown by the horse. An excitement that hatched purely out of inexperience and recklessness. There was no fear. I did not want it to stop.  Some distant later, my horse gradually resumed its normal routine, a trot. After riding along some narrow ledges and grassy fields, I reached to top of Muanga Terevaka. The views from top was stunning and I was in awe. For the first time in my life, firmly on terra firma [land] , I witnessed the 360 degrees curvature of the blue earth. I was in Utopia.  Beyond the jagged shores and white water, the vast expanse of the beautiful deep azure blue ocean stretched endlessly.The blue sky,  equally handsome, gave me the impression that I was locked in a blue bubble. Beyond this euphoric experience, the new  frontier that awaited for me was outer space. 

Reluctantly,I made my way down the mountain and back towards the coast, to the starting point. My fears of pain as a result of this adventure began to set in. I was hopeful it would not be detrimental. My horse , now looking sedate finally was free to roam at leisure. I could almost see relief in its eyes. Amature  riders! Thereafter, I was treated to a fish barbecue by the horse’s owners. It was a nice way to finish off a wonderful experience. Now that the fun was over, I awaited unenthusiastically for the pain to set in. To my surprise, there was none. I had the whole evening to relax and wait for my departure in the late evening. I was a little nervous when I was informed that the flight was delayed. The departure time had passed and I was still at the hostel. Martha and her husband were unassuming and informed me that someone at the airport will confirm later. We received the call. After some hugs and kisses I bid farewell to Ophelie, Martha and Judith. Their company made my journey to this remote and mystical island more colourful. My flight path took me deeper into the Pacific to French Polynesia and concluded in Aotearoa, the land of the long white cloud, the land I now call home.

In contrast to my arrival to this remote island at sunrise, I left in darkness. Looking back, the inferences fell appropriately ; sunrise - discovery, new beginnings and enthusiasm and sunset - darkness of unanswered questions and mystery of the unknown. Within seconds, this tiny island had vanished from my sight as the aircraft sped higher towards the starry sky. I began to recount the arduous but stupendous journey I had undertaken; the endurance through snow;  finding myself in ice and biting cold southern winds;  the magical sights of the natural and man made wonders; the colourful cultures of the people living under the shadow of the mighty Andes and the watchful eye of the condor; the unmistakable music and dances; the uninhibited smiles and spontaneous laughter of the people; the heritage of colonial architecture of the old cities;  the vibrant and pleasantly chaotic market places and much more. All these had culminated into a richly rewarding and made this  epic journey very spiritual, engrained an under-standing of humility, respect for the environment, culture and elements of nature. This journey had not only enriched and broadened my life’s scope, but also had deeply seeded into me the joys of travel, walking and simply being alive. At times just to be a child again.  To be free, especially when I am walking,  like a condor  gliding effortlessly over terrain so immense, so diverse and so beautiful. Now, alas, I longed to be reunited with my family at home, to tell the unending discoveries, tales and stories of my journey that was inspired and began in the Andes.  

This is not the end of my journey but a beginning of another. Just go and go now to see the beyond………

2.12.09

 

 

 

 

Rapa Nui [11], Chile

A refreshing looking man greeted me as I stepped into the Orongo Ceremonial Village site [5000 peso]. Carlos, the unassuming  Park  Warden was a curious and learning man with wisdom and enthusiasm written all over his face. He smiled frequently and ushered us into the site. As with the surrounding sites, it had a stunning view. The vast expanse of the deep blue sea laid before me. Piles of rusty-brown boulders with carving were piled up on the top of a steep cliff.  Below in the coast were islets  - Motu Nui, Motu Iti and the needle-shaped Motu Kau Kau. The view from the top of this cliff was panoramic, with the nearby islands battered by the sea which sent  crashed waves high into the air and the magnificent beauty  of the earth’s curvature on the blue horizon. Simply stunning and intoxicating. A short walk brought me to some to the restored masonry homes. The stones were intricately stacked and well designed to provide for effective defence. However, the entrances were narrow and it seemed like one cannot get in or out in a hurry. They heavy roof was low and resembled subterranean-like homes. Imagine a bunker but made out of flat stones. Further along the pathway, right on the edge of the cliff were basalt rocks with carved pictorial petroglyphs of the once prolific culture on this site – Birdman [Tangata Manu] culture. The figures depicted a human anatomy with a bird’s head almost always in a crouched position holding an egg. Stories relate these to the frigate birds that populate these cliffs. The culture itself is based on the first person to collect the eggs of the Sooty Tern or Manu Tara, that nest on Motu Nui. The brave men of each clan or tribe would slide down one side of the steep cliff face on a reed raft into the pounding ocean. Upon entering the water, they swam the treacherous stretch known to be infested with sharks to the island and collect the egg. The first person to return and hand over the prized possession to their leader will ensure that this leader will rule until the next nesting season. You either have to be brave or mad to participate in this near death race. Somehow, this made sense to me as this process was unbiased and avoided indifferences between the clans. This helped unite the people under one rule. Sadly, this culture had probably decimated the Sooty Tern population. Another common petroglyph is fierce looking Makemake - the creator god of fertility and the chief god of the bird-man cult. Both Makemake and Tanga manu played a significant part in the mythology of Easter Island. Now having travelled to most parts of the triangular-shaped island, there seemed to be a Hindu element to the stories here. Were the moais merely a representation of the phallic symbol of the Linga [ the God of Creation - Shiva] and the new religion of Tangata manu where Make make takes on this representation. The existence of Komari - the representation of the female genital – vulva on some of the petroglyphs dotting the island. This completed the natural balance of male [Shiva] and female consort Parvathi. There seemed to be a similarity :- worship with respect to the natural elements, alignment with the cosmos particularly the sun and the creation and belief in the manifestation of God, in this case the Moai and the  general worship of offerings, pyre and prayer.  

Over the years of exposure of these volcanic rock boulders, some of the historic carving had nearly faded off. The Birdman culture co-existed with the Moai worship as the latter was on the decline. How and why did a culture that had been in practise for  centuries abruptly change over to a new one? Were the islanders seeking urgent reprieve from the disaster that was happening around them or was it just a natural progression? Whatever the reasons may be, one fact remained - there existed a need by the people to worship and to pay homage to the Gods or ancestors. In today’s modern world, it is hard to relate to this kind of worship, an inner desire to know and meet the creator. I came to a dead-end of the trail. In front of me the crater rim had collapsed with the steep slopes running into the reed filled freshwater lake and capped with rocky outcrops. On the other side, the vast expanse of the cobalt blue Pacific Ocean with the curvature of the earth. I felt that I was standing on terra firma at the edge of earth. The feeling was exhilarating and the views sublime.  On the southern view, I could just make out Poike Peninsula and the rugged coastline through the hazy condition. Another prominent mountain rose proudly in the eastern fringe, Mount Terevaka.  This captivating site would be as close to paradise as possible although I must admit that I had been to several in my lifetime. Quite contended indeed. On the return trail, more rock art was on display. Clumps of bright purplish pink flowers grew sporadically on the upper side of the western crater wall which added colour to the already magical and historical site. Walking back through the tropical trees and the vegetated fields was to some extent stimulating. It reminded me of the lush tropical landscape that I used to design and implement while living in the Malaysia. Memories, it’s a wonderful thing!

 

 

 

 

1.12.09

  

Rapa Nui [10], Chile

The day was turning out to be sunny and the usual culprit, dark clouds, lingered about. Today I headed out to the nearest extinct volcano to Hanga Roa town,  Rano Kau. Together with Martha, Judith and Opheli, we headed north from the coast and towards the mountain. After a short walk, I revisited my first experience of a moai, Ahu Raita, at Hanga Piko  port. I passed by several wooden houses with corrugated iron roof tops. The surrounding was pleasantly densely vegetated with swaying coconut palms, copse of banana plants and a myriad of decorative foliage and flowering plants. At another location, I entered what seemed like a botanical garden. Plants were arranged in a formal manner with names which included decorative ground plants, fruit trees, forest trees, ferns and ornamentals. I really enjoyed this gem, surrounded by free flowing tropical plants. I wondered what the native plants of this island were. The man-made green lung  served to develop and propagate plant materials for future planting on the island. A little distance away, I walked under a canopy of tall and slender forest trees. I tried to look for some signpost identifying the name of this tree. Were they Sophora toromiro, the native tree now extinct in the wild. It was wonderful to see bird life flourishing in this area. Apart from that, animal life was transparently empty. The walk ascended toward the gently sloping mountain. A signpost read “Te Ara O Te Ao - Llamado tambien  “El camino del mando” esta ruta evoca antiguos rituales que culminaban en orongo” which translated means “The Way of Control” this route evokes ancient ritual culminating in Orongo”. Was this an ancient route to the top of the crater?  Part way, I could see the green but barren Mount Tareveka and conical but flat ttopped Puna Pau. The later part of the walk was on a grassy scrub like vegetation.

After about an hour and a half walk, I reached the top. This was the crater rim of extinct Rano Kau, a volcanic caldera on the south-western tip of the island. It was a spectacular and exhilarating sight. The south to western side was surrounded by the deep blue ocean and on the northern side, the distant Poike Peninsula jutted above the parched land below. At the same time it was surreal to look into the freshwater crater lake itself. The sides descended steeply in streaks of green and brown about two hundred meters. Patches of green vegetation clanged to the sides together with brown smooth bare rock surfaces. In some places, it looked like a scree of scoria rocks. The western rim had partially collapsed and this exposed the striking blue of the sea. It resembled a huge cauldron. At one point, I carefully climbed on a rock that seemed to be hanging off the cliff. I nervously looked into the carter. The surface of the lake was covered with totara reeds and other aquatic plants. This composition had created hundreds of lakes and islands. In the exposed surfaces, water reflected strongly the deep blue of the sky. Standing here, at about 324m, gave me a full perspective and spectacular  views  of the triangular shaped island. Boulders of rocks hung precariously  of the steep side. I walked along the rim which gave a different perspective of the crater and its surroundings. A few bird dashed in and out of the grassy fields around the top of the rim. At one point, Mataveri Airport was clearly visible. One critical aspect that was significantly missing was the moai. There were none to be seen. Why? Had they been removed or had they just fell into the watery graves of the crater lake  or over the sides of the volcano into the ocean due to natural geographical activities. The crater rim can be walked almost completely, apart from the collapsed bit,  but it is deceiving. It does require considerable amount of time to walk this. At one point of the walk, I climbed onto some rocks that  jutted out precariously from the side of the rim. I nervously crawled onto it. I looked over my shoulder. It was a long vertical drop into the mashes of the crater lake. I felt as if I was floating above the lake like a hovercraft. I wished I could fly at will like the birds that often flew by dipping and swerving in and out of the crater. Just some distant away lay a petroglyphs carved onto a volcanic rock with an image with a head of a bird and body of a slumped man. This is the vision of the ancient settlers of a Birdman, a culture that perhaps co-existed at the latter stages and preceded the moai culture. There was still some distance to walk on the eastern rim.  Instead, I  walked away towards another fascinating site at the south-western tip of the crater rim, Orongo Village.

 

Rapa Nui [9], Chile

Ahu Akivi had a magnetic and mesmerizing appeal especially when golden radiant light reflected off from each of the seven moai by the tilting late sun. We drove further inland and the roads start to deteriorate. Fortunately, the 4 wheel drive vehicle was invaluable. The slow drive gave me time to appreciate the near barren rolling hills. Several home had small cultivated farms. Rows of vegetables and other edibles were neatly planted and tended. Some of these homesteads had fences to protect their crops. There were barely any fruit trees.  The vehicle came to a halt in front of a barren but green hill, Puna Pau. Wild horses roamed freely foraging on the meager grasses at foothill. From hereon  it was a slow but easy walk uphill to extinct crater cone. The green hill slopes was dominated by huge scoria like cylindrical shaped boulders. This is the source or quarry from which the top hats or Pukao were made. The rust coloured rocks were not identical in sizes nor form but all had only one purpose – to be adorned on the heads of the free-standing moais. Some had slits on them, perhaps to facilitate anchor onto the heads. On my journey round the island, only a few had a top knot  on. I wondered if all had them on before their destruction. If they had, there were little or no evidence around. Perhaps they had been washed into the sea. The views from the hill-top was magnificent and gave another perspective of the island’s rugged western coast  looking out to the deep blue sea. Corrugated iron rooftop houses were scattered around the lowlands choked with thick vegetation.  Across the hills, treeless Mount Taraveka, the highest on the island. Beyond that, the deep blue Pacific  Ocean and a rather overcast sky. This was a pleasant sight. Quite, isolated, lush greenery and a sense of well-being as most parts of the island I had ventured were bare.

A short drive through uneven dirt road was a cave system used by the tribes as shelter and safety. It looked just ordinary from the road and a small vegetated area with which undergrowth. A short walk led to an underground cave, Ana Te Pahu. I descended into a sunken garden planted with bananas and a few varieties of probably edible plants. Beyond the garden was a narrow cave that meandered into darkness. I walked along a stoney path avoiding boulders. Filtered water dripped from the ceiling that created a wet and damp floor. As I went deeper, the height diminished and the light from my torch was the only source of light. I was unable to see beyond. There seemed to be air vents and cavities for storage or dwellings. However, it looked as if unattended.  

On the back earth roads, we made our way towards Tahai Complex. Turns, twist and muddy experience resembled a 4 wheel drive rally. However, there were no dust trails behind the vehicle. The weather had deteriorated and the sky became pregnant with storm clouds with potential to rain. I looked forward to it as the weather was getting too tropical hot and balmy. I headed back to the hostel. It was good to, sort of, slow down instead of moving from one place to another, although leisurely,  constantly. Even in Easter Island’s  snail’s pace. I wandered around Hanga Roa walking the streets and checking out the local supermarkets and handicrafts shops. Prices of sundries are understandably expensive but trying to bring these from the mainland to save a few dollars, is nearing absurdity. Unless you are a hardcore, of course. At the hostel, I prepared to have my dinner out. The girls were already preparing their dinner. Martha, the middle-aged hostel owner, called  out to me and invited me to a small barbecue just next to the hostel. Smoke bellowed from the raging fire with pieces of fish cooked on a wire mesh. There were  plenty off salad and bread spread on the adjacent table. More fresh fish were inside a bucket next t the fire. I immediately accepted the offer. A few others joined in. I relished the dishes especially the smoky hot fish burger that I had made and the pleasant company. With a cold breeze blowing through my hair and a warm fire nearby, stomach filled, I was totally satisfied.  Afterwards, I sat alone and pondered over my day’s journey and adventure. Rapa Nui is not only fascinating for its giant stone statues and isolated and magical location but also the ease at which I could stand and feel these man-made monument without any apparent barriers. This whole island is truly an open air museum. There were no fixed paths to follow, one can get close and personal with the museum pieces and the ease of moving from place to place, either by vehicle or foot. This design of close one-one exposure had enhanced this unique contact into a lifetime experience.   

Rapa Nui [8], Chile

It was another early morning start today to experience sunrise at Ahu Tongariki. Just as we were about the leave the hostel, Martha informed me that I had just missed seeing the setting full moon over the horizon. What a missed opportunity. Immediately my I thought of the prospect of watching this spectacle unfold at Tahai Complex. It would have been a magical experience. This morning Opheli joined us. Back on the road dodging pot holes and occasionally tourist on motorbikes in the early hours of the day. Today, I looked up towards the bluish sky, it promised to be a clear day. Well at least for now. The dawn sky was blue and the ground still dark when I arrived at the site. It was colder than the day before  and the air was still. There were a few people gathered around. I waited near the stone petroglyphs surrounded with tall grasses. The fifteen giant stone sculptures looked miniaturised against the canvas of the blue sky. It was an amazing sight. I fumbled with my camera trying to capture this moment before sunrise. I did not have a tripod and the light levels were certainly low to operate manually. I set my camera on an icy cold stone, probably remnants of a ruined statue. Twilight swiftly turned the sky into a fiery inferno. Giant plumes of black clouds gathered above this inferno. There were streaks of red, scarlet, burgundy, crimson, ruby, orange and  yellow. It soon evolved into a scorching molten lava that moved aggressively but poised. I called it organised chaos.  It looked as if the sun had collided into earth’s atmosphere.  The moais could not see this as they had their backs towards the horizon. The sea, appeared like a thin band of deep violet on the edge of earth.  It was a stunning sight to see the darkened upright stone sculptures  and the nearby Poike Peninsula  against this evolving chameleon-like backdrop. Little birds stopped to rest on the heads of the moais before venturing further. The colours progressively changed with the light of the day. As the bright orange sun peaked out of the horizon, the sky was dominated by hues of gold, yellow and orange which contrasted sharply with bands and splurges from a painter’s palette. The blackness in the sky was gradually displaced by a sea of blue. Splashes of white clouds set in as bails of cotton like dark clouds still lingered above. Dawn had set in.

There was something endearing about sunrise and the coming of a new day such as today. The warmth of the sun on my skin, the soft lighting, magnificent colours and contrast of the sky, the freshness of smell and peaceful silence certainly made me feel awakened. The feeling of being consciously  immersed in nature and spirituality. A masterful interplay between clouds and light.  The pretenders and silhouettes  disappeared. Featureless became defined and a new beginning was ushered in. I was surrounded by rock carvings and toppled ruins. The green blades of grasses were illuminated by the soft golden light to reveal its fresh emergence. The features of the motionless moai’s  emerged gradually. I could barely look into the sun which was now wedged between the tall standing stone statues.  I walked close to the moais.  Long shadows emerged on the dew wet ground and gradually elongated, all concaving towards their birth place, Rano Raraku. The hue changed several times from shades of brown to green in close succession. The great volcanic mountain acted like a screen reflecting the mood of the raising sun. Soon the sun rose high and clouds began to ease in. I walked round to the back of the ahu. A magnificent yellow glow warmed the backs of the moai. I too loved the warmth. I can now appreciate the meticulously stacked stones and the different tiers of the ahu. One half of Poike  Peninsula was basking in the golden light and several islets [motu] off the coast became visible. I noticed that only a few people had ventured this morning to witness this wonderful spectacle.  I was totally satisfied. Daybreak had set in.

I hurried back towards the base of Rano Raraku to witness the effect of the morning light on the surrounding. The manicured grass glowed with a tinge of yellowish-green and there was an aura about the partially exposed moais on the slopes against the backdrop of a black mountain. They glowed with their eye cavities clearly visible and emitted a peaceful appearance.  Their bodies were drapped with hues of brown and yellow instead of the natural gray exterior. They too seemed awakened, perhaps an end to their long anticipated question – their purpose of their creation!

I returned to Hanga Roa passing through small homes surrounded by planted vegetation of coconut palms, bananas, vegetables  and decorative plants. I wandered around town. It was laid back, traffic was low and restaurants waited patiently for lunch hour to set in. There were a few supermarket like outlets selling from foodstuff to home utensils. An impromptu market was set up from a parked vehicle  by the roadside. Passerbyers inspected the fresh produce and haggled over prices before scurrying off. I liked the pace of live here. The local people seemed to smile quite a bit, perhaps to foreign tourist. The friendly Polynesian nature was on exhibition. It was another sunny day with a cloudless blue sky. ln the late afternoon, we headed into the interior of the island to seek Ahu Akivi. The sun was tilting towards the western horizon and its golden rays shinned prominently onto the seven sea facing moais. It was a heart warming sight. I enjoyed the delight of viewing light on the faces of the moais. They exuded a sense of friendliness and welcome. This was the first, if not the only sea facing statues on the island. Why did these seven sculptures face the sea and were located in the interior of the island? All the others which were erected on the ahus were located along the coast and faced inland. What was their significance? I only pondered over these questions for a moment as I was engrossed in watching their faces brighten up with the late light. All these moais had at one time coral eyes embedded on them but no longer. Their deep eye sockets were locked towards the western horizon with relentless intent on the faces. I wondered what their questions were? However, the demeanour of these stone structures  was calm and friendly. They seemed to invite all towards them with exuberance and affability. Why did I experience the various moods of these silent giant monoliths on the island? Perhaps the light, the setting or was it just reflecting my outlook and desires. The surrounding area was an open land with pockets of trees and rolling hills. The rounded stones of the ahu stretched beyond the low stacked angular stones on which the giant stone creations stood. Strangely , the mood of the statues resonated and moulded  a positive mood in me. I was upbeat somehow had a feeling of lightness. As if a unseen burden had been lifted of my shoulders. Perhaps, these are the non-tangible powers emanated by these silent giants which had allured man since their creation.  

29.11.09

Rapa Nui[7], Chile

Back on the dusty earth roads, I headed back towards the coast to get another look at the majestic Ahu Tongariki.  The appearance of the landscape changed continuously with the  time and light of the day. Its dramatic location beneath the towering  Poike  Peninsula, with a backdrop of the busy and vast electric blue Pacific Ocean and unassuming Rano  Raraku  in the foreground  was not only spectacular  but also made a powerful statement. This is a spiritually charged power place. I can imagine how the early travellers arriving by ships would have reacted on sighting this panoramic view.

I drove along the rocky east coast punctuated with inlets and coves battered by the torrent Pacific Ocean. Sprays of water drifted inland as the ocean waves hit the shore. Dramatic aerial display of water was a constant companion along this dirt road. As much as possible, I kept close to the coastline on dirt roads. These are where numerous ruins of moais that laid toppled from their high stone pedestal , broken and undignified. Some of the statues had become one with the surrounding volcanic rocks, indistinguishable and inconspicuous. This is the road of the moais. I came to one, Ahu Akahanga. The moais laid with their faces into the ground where they once stood proudly.  At another significient site, Ahu Hanga Tee, a group off eight moais with the heads pointed towards the sea and faces buried into the ground. A few rounded scoria hats were scattered nearby.  I cannot help but wonder and imagine the hay days and the downfall of this moai worship culture. Even the ahu is slowly turning into rubble of black volcanic rocks. I can understand the destruction of these magnificent stone statues by warring factions. The symbolic death of the spirit or mana of the opposing tribes. Over time, without intervention from man, I believe the moais of this island would have become one with the land they originated and return to sea to be buried for eternity. There is no shade on this track of roads. A few plots of land were fenced with horses roaming about. The sea breeze brought much-needed cooling from the blazing afternoon sun. I drove all the way back to Hanga Roa. I tried to locate Ahu Vinapu, near Mataveri Airport but had taken a wrong turn which headed back to town. A man dressed in his finest wearing a cowboy hat complete with spurs on his boots rode his horse as I drove past him. He was elegant and the horse regal. Horses are a common mode of transportation on the island. I had seen a few wandering down the main roads in Hanga Roa like in a western movie. I was exhausted from the heat of the long but satisfying day.

At the hostel, I was surprised to see Ophelie, a French girl I had met at Puerto Natales. This was a pleasant surprise and now there are, including myself, four of us from the same hostel in Puerto Natales. How is that for coincidence. That late afternoon, I decided just to catch up on some rest and wandered off to the airy common room at the hostel. The cool sea breeze blew through the building that brought respite from the blistering late afternoon sun. The sound of the ocean waves pounding onto the coast added a real relaxed feel to the lazy atmosphere.  Not long, the two smiling girls, Judith and Marta, strolled into the hall. I was keen to find out about their walking adventure of about five hours from Anakena Beach to Hanga Roa along the western coast.

We decided to head back to the Tahai complex to experience the sunset once again. There was not much else to do anyway. Today, there were less clouds, at least for now, and the day was brighter. A woman, with an array of artifacts and island mementos displayed on a piece  of cloth, stood patiently for potential buyers. The sunlight reflected strongly off some of the metallic items. A ball of white light descended towards the horizon. A long golden shimmering light stretched across the sea like a chord , a conduit, which connected the heavenly realm to the mystical earthly realm. Was this a part of the early inhabitant’s  culture – intertwined with the celestial movements of the stars, moon and the sun. Perhaps the statues, located round the island, acted as points of contact, measurements and calculations. These information were later used to decide planting seasons, sailing voyages and all other cultural activities. Perhaps, being isolated from the rest of the world, this island was in fact axis mundi, the Navel of the Earth. Sitting admits this wonderful site, majestic monolith stone sculptures, surrounded by an ambient environment, knowing the geographic location, I can easily belief this ideology. Myths remained myths for the uncultured and uninformed. One should think outside the mind and body – belief, faith, culture and generations of indoctrination have far inner implications and experiences. This was portrayed by this  idol worshipping by the ancient Rapa Nuians. Were the moais arranged in a precise manner, aligned to the stars and planetary movements. Was there a link to the other famous South American ancient cities – Cusco, Machu Pichu, Aztecs , Mayan temples or even broader to the pyramids, Babylon and Sumeria to name a few. For now, they still remained as myths and mysteries.

Dark clouds began to etch in boldly over the horizon. Streaks of sun rays penetrated through the dense blanket of clouds. This lit up the dusk sky. If I let my imagination run wide, I could almost see angels sliding down the long soft stream of light to take a dip in the ocean. High above in the sky, there was a riot of colours; indigo, violet, orange, yellow and more. The full spectrum of the sun’s magic was on display. The dark ocean’s surface gleamed like a mirror. The moais in the foreground became sillouted and darkened. Although in a shadow, they still had an all-encompassing feature. It was a very dramatic and captivating sight. Just as I was  departing  from the site, the bright glow of the moon shone high above my head. It had just appeared as the fast-moving dark clouds parted. Perhaps, I had not taken much notice earlier as I was preoccupied watching the sunset. My thoughts of the moais with celestial connection and significance was verified, of sorts. The moon had followed the path of the sun. Now the sun had vanished below the horizon leaving only a constricted fiery glow over the edge of earth. I could hear whispers and footsteps fading around me. The moon played hide and seek with the dark and fast roaming clouds. A welcoming tropical thunderstorm was in the making.

29.11.09

Rapa Nui [6]

I fumbled along the way towards my car as I tried to walk quickly over the loose rocks piled up against the coast.  I drove over to the Ahu Tongariki compound. With dawn long gone I could clearly see all the features of the moais, standing in attention with hands on their sides, of varying size and expressions, on the ceremonial platform. From their facial expressions, I could feel as if there was a tremendous purpose and anticipation. A task that needed to be performed with urgency. The more I observed these silent stone statues, the more I began to appreciate and  characterise  the multitude of  facial expressions. This is the longest ceremonial platform on the island, about 150 meters. The inclined  rounded glossy rocks or poro lay in the foreground. Grasses peeped out and around the rocks adding a sense of life. Of the fifteen stone statues, only one had the ceremonial scoria hat on. All these statues were restored after they were toppled during the tribal conflict and later by a tsunami. I stood at the edge of the platform. The size of these giants were just overwhelming and overpowering. One of them could well be over ten meters. There was an invisible force that breathed down on me, individually and collectively,  which  gripped me to stand in silence. I felt small and helpless. Their deep prying eyes , now without their obsidian and coral in-lay, looked into the distant facing east , in defiant, towards their birthplace, Rano Raraku. A small solitary and rustic  moai stood at the entrance and faced towards the north with its head held high and proud. Its expression, like a shepard watching over a flock, unhurried, strong yet humble. Why did it face north and what was its name, if it had one?  From here I could see the near treeless but grassy green conical-shaped volcanic Poike Peninsula rise majestically against the pale blue sky. Again, there was an unseen yet tangible force that kept me from leaving the site.  Perhaps it was the magnetic and engaging nature of these incredible and mystical ancient statues.

A few kilometers drive on a dirt road brought me to the foot of the extinct volcano –  Rano Raraku, the birthplace of all the moais on the island.  A panoramic view of the entire mountain’s  south-east face laid before me. A monolith rising out of the relatively flat land. Numerous moais lay  scattered all over the grassy sloping terrain with the vertical volcanic rocks cliff in the background. They were one in form with the mountain in the background. Dark shadows of hollowed cave like appeared within this cliff face. This panoramic view was an inviting and intriguing sight. I felt a  sense of urgency to get to the gray volcanic cone. At the entrance, I saw people milling about in a small market place.   Just past the park’s entrance, an inconspicuous  moai  with its face towards the ground, lay amongst grasses and green shrubs. Nearby  another moai laid, looking  skyward, with its head severed from its torso. It looked  remarkably in good condition.  Several horses foraged on the meager grasses nearby. I soon realised that most of the statues here were buried, over time from erosion of the caldera,  into the ground as varying degree. They were mostly buried up to their torso but some barely above their high noses and chins. However, one common sight was, all of these carved statues were not far from their origin.  On the rock face, more moais were left in various stages of sculpture still attached to their hardened volcanic tuff parent , Rano Raraku. This is the birthplace of probably all (some were made from red scoria)  the moais on the island. This gave an intimate view, frozen in time, of the workings of giving birth to a moai. Again the inevitable  questions arose. What caused this sculpturing process to abruptly cease? What contraptions were employed to transport these heavy statutes down the mountain and further? Why had these completed masterpieces  not reached to their final destination? Perhaps there is a similarity to Machu Pichu - the inhabitants just left for a host of reasons -  abruptly. Or was there something more sinister and gruesome undertakings at work? Historians and archeologist are still reflecting on the subject.

By now I had already seen several moais at various locations. How would this be any different. The facial expressions on these moais  however looked  sombre and saddened. They proudly gazed into the open sea and inland with expectation, perhaps  seeking  an answer of their purpose. Awaiting, perhaps a call, in suspension for their creators to finally take them to their intended destination or resting place. I walked along the narrow trail with a deep sense of appreciation for the sculptors against a backdrop of the vertical volcanic cone. The effort that had gone into making these statues methodically on an industrial-scale with just basic tools seemed  unattainable let alone moving these weighty statues. How and what was the motivation?  They must have had great determination and faith to undertake such an immense task. Alternatively, perhaps an unpleasant experience awaited those who disobeyed. No matter what, one thing that is certain, the amount of time, sacrifice, perseverance and artistic skill required to undertake this mammoth activity would have been colossal. One moai had a three mast ship carved on its chest. What did this signify? Was it an observation at creation or was it done years later after an encounter? At one site, there was an unusual sculpture, Tukuturi, a kneeling moai. It was unusual because the figure was kneeling with his hand on the thighs and it had a head, torso and legs. A complete anatomy. All other moais have no lower limbs. The head itself was uniquely rounded and seemed to spot a beard. It was not of giant proportion, merely about four meters. Perhaps this was the earliest design and creation. Why did this moai differ from all others? Was this statues to resemble any leader or statesman?  The views from here, across the plain towards Ahu Tongariki and the  greenish tinged Poike Peninsula lashed by the open deep cobalt blue sea, was simply stupendous.

I walked back towards the entrance but turned right towards a small opening on the hill. This was the rim, a gateway into the freshwater crater lake itself. It resembled an amphitheater with the lake as the central arena and the steep slope rising towards the rim the seats. The lake was partially covered with aquatic plants and reeds. A young mother holding her baby bundled up in layers of cloths, washed her hand in the shallow waters of the freshwater lake.  This is one of the few site of freshwater supply to the island. Midway between the lake and the crater top, I could see  several black statues dotted around the lake from the eastern to the north-western slope. However, on the western slope, reddish and orange clay like soil appeared at places stripped off of vegetation. Perhaps this was due to erosion. I walked up a narrow path and came face to face with not one but several moais. At all other sites, there was a barrier in the form of ahu or physical barriers. However, here, on the path itself, I could finally touch the ancient ones. I walked further along this path and captured the full view of the crater lake, surrounded by densely vegetated shrubs including wild guava plants and a few flowering plants including lantana. I looked around and I was alone in the realm of the mysitical statues. In contrast, just a few hundred meters away, tour groups and people milled about on the main site. Here, there was tranquility and seclusion. I enjoyed this isolation. There was a need or perhaps a spiritual call for me to talk to one. I hugged a moai as if meeting along lost friend. I loved that sense of touch. It was a warm feeling. I then sat beside, under the shadow, of this moai for a while. There was no particular reason why I choose this moai. It is not unnatural for me to converse with trees in the jungle, whispering to the mountains or request permission to pass, especially in  unusual and alien places. I too like the early easter islanders, believed in spirits, although unseen, that dwell in these places. The conversation made me feel welcomed and to walk with respect. I loved the idea of human contact both physically or spiritually. I fear, in the modern age of digital technology, this phenomenon is heading to be classified as  endangered. Secretly, I hoped that my own salvation would be answered. I continued along the path towards the northern slope. All these moais had been carved from the crater mountain. Deep cave like cavities were clearly visible. These buried  moais too faced outwards towards the crater lake and beyond towards the sea. There was a sense of calm and peacefulness on their expressions. A sense of contentment. Perhaps they have resigned to the fact this was their resting place or just to be left alone without any annoying human interferences. I walked back towards the entrance on this path of the moais. Suddenly, I heard sound of cutting and chopping. There was no one to be seen. Amongst the thick water reeds, a man with a small boat was harvesting the water reeds. This site was truly remarkable as it provided a real opportunity to connect freely, uninhibited with the din of talk and distractions of everyday life with these remarkable moais. I had finally walked amongst the ancient silent giants of Rapa  Nui  beneath their watchful eyes. There was no sense of achievement but humbled and contented of being in the presences of an ancient cradle of civilisation.

In side a small building, just at the entrance to  Rano Raraku park, were several retail shops selling all kinds of local artifacts and textiles. Seemed like a good as any place to get some souvenirs. Here I met Tina, a young island girl with a sweet smile. There were great similarities, in appearance and mannerism, between Rapa Nuians and the Maoris in New Zealand. Both with Polynesian roots. She was friendly, perhaps with a prospect to sell, and accommodating. Tourism is the biggest revenue earner to these islanders. Now it is a way of life here – souvenirs, tours, accommodations, home stays, traditional dance shows, vehicle rentals and all other derivatives of the tourism trade. The biggest sell for the island, the giant moais of Easter Island. Like in the past, these silent giant statues, still managed to draw attention and  demand respect from all whom had travelled vast distances to witness one of mankind’s wondrous creations.  This is certainly an incredible and extraordinary  place. A place of inspiration , humility and of human endeavour. A place of faith and believe. A place of spirituality and divinities. A place surrounded by exquisite and picturesque landscape.

28.11.09

Rapa Nui [5], Chile

I was excited to see the whole area planted with swaying coconut palms. Through the palm fringed area, I could see seven statue Ahu Nau Nau of which four of them had red scoria headdress or pukao on them. Another two statue with only their torso. Nearby, a  solitary statue, Ahu  Atrue  Huki . This moai had a tiresome face, nearly featureless. Perhaps, this was an earliest creation and its harsh existence  written all over its face. Beyond that, a crescent-shaped empty sandy beach and a wide blue ocean. This site is sheltered by mountains on both its northern and southern flanks. The morning  sun had just risen over the mountains and the stern faces of Ahu Nau Nau moais were revealed. Their features – high noses, protruding chins, navel and abdomen, thin lips, narrow slender fingers on their sides, elongated ears with lobes and deep peering eyes – seemed remarkably refined and well-preserved. Their eye sockets deep, perhaps coral eyes were set in them before. In the surrounding grassy area lay several  other fallen moais and pukaos. Another interesting find was that on their backs, there were geometric designs. I had not seen this in any of the moais before. Another astounding sight was a head of a moai, perhaps a previously fallen one, was used on the back as part of the ahu. A motif of a lizard carved on a stone also decorated this fascinating ahu. Like all the other ahus, no mortar  were used, just stacking of mainly rectangular pieces of rocks. Some of this stone arrangement  had a uncanny resemblance to the Andean stone work of the Incas that I had seen in the surroundings of Cusco and the cloud forests of Machu Pichu. 

What was the reason some of these moais had top knot on their heads?  Did they represent their natural hair colour as suggested by some theorist or simply a mark of respect or a representation of hierarchy. Even the experts are baffled. Anakena beach was believed to the first landing by these ancient settlers. Again, I pondered over the question, like many others, why were these giant stone statues built for or represented. In the ancient world and today, man had seeked spirituality. Mountains, rivers and many natural elements had been worshipped for its sheer presence, magnitude and inexplaination. This followed on by creating “worldly gods” as a tangible physical form of the super natural’s manifestation. The local inhabitants believed and empowered  these moais, in their physical form, to act as a medium to be liked to the gods, spiritual world and ancestors. Once given life or mana, in this instance, by placing the coral eyes, the stone statues are awakened and became a “living form”.   A connection to the past, present and the future. All living religions worship the scriptures of the past, today, for a better future and after life. Driven by faith, there is a will for man  to immerse and achieve  spectacular things – in this instance, carve out with basic tools gigantic stone statues. A God; Protector; Spirit; Guardian;  Intermediaries to connect to the after life or ancestors; Worship; Demarcators of territory; Resting place for the dead spirits prior to moving on and so on. However, for the untrained, its is just a stone, a tuff volcanic stone. It can be politicised  and reigned control and weld’s Power. It can mean and represent virtually anything to the known and believer. Why do they have many connotations or inferences? The reason I believe is -  it is man whom empowered these statues. Therefore, it is man who can change its representation , perception and eventually its destiny. This is perhaps why, over time, with decline in faith and believe, other issues surfaced;  power struggle and tribal warfare; mere survival resulting from over population and lack of resources particularly food. This eventually had led to the demise of these magnificent moai culture as they lost their significance in society.

A rainbow suddenly  appeared just over the treeless mountains towards the north. There was no rain. The precipitation of moisture from the land’s  morning dew vaporised by the sun’s morning rays had created this wonderful and miracle like atmosphere. It was indeed a pleasant surprise. This further added the mystical appeal of the mysterious giant volcanic stone statues here. The four stone  statues looked regal with their cylindrical rusty-red headdress. Above the gently swaying coconut palms, a bird, perched on the palm fronds, keenly surveyed the land below.  I tore myself away from this beautiful and remote tropical paradise and headed inland once again. I turned around for one last look, the seven moais looked dwarfed by the nearby tall palm trees. The clay earth roads were in good condition and soon I found myself back along the north-eastern coast. The landscape was surreal, filled with boulders of volcanic rocks. The uneven calcified lava formed rocky coastline was battered by the Pacific Ocean waves. Some black volcanic rocks protruded out into the sea became visible with the ebb and flow of the waves. I drove off the main roads and onto an impromptu road lanes along the water front. Remnants of old structures littered the long stretch of the coastline. There was huge fallen moai with its head facing the ground. Nearby, a collection of stacked stones resembling old dwelling amongst other things. On one stretch of the long coastline, I met Toni and his wife, both local residents, having a day off from work. I took out my map and tried to locate Ahu Te Pito Kura and the Navel of the World rocks on the coast. I continued my journey and came to sign posted site of Papa Vaka. This site is a massive basaltic rock with several petroglyphs are carved. One site was called Papa Mangai. here there were several fish hooks (mangai) of varying sizes and design. A curious but extraordinary feature was mythological like marine creatures that resembled crabs and octopus. Amongst it, two vaka or canoes. On another site, Papa Mango, were two distinctive fish designs namely kahi (tuna) and mango (shark). The lines were faint. Some of the lines had vanished with its exposure o the environment over time. As I drove away from the coast, I realised that I had missed both the gaint Ahu Te Pito Kura and the mythical Navel of the World. I was disappointed for being not mindful and resigned to the fact that I had missed an important site. This would have been my second experience to witness the navel of the world. My first was at remote Mt. Kailas in Central Tibet.  Interestingly, both these sites are remote and hard to get to. Perhaps befitting their status. However, in my mind , was that moai with its face down on the ground  Ahu Te Pito Kura?

I retraced my path back towards Ahu Togariki.  As I approached, I could see the treeless crater mountain, Rano Raraku, rise out like a monolith from the green flatlands. I could now appreciate the full sight of the mountain in the late morning light. About a kilometer away from Ahu Tongariki, I stopped and walked along the coast. A few men had gathered around. I headed in their direction. Pito and his friends were feasting on freshly caught fish on an open barbecue. The friendly nature of the easter islanders prevailed and I was invited to join in. One man, who wore a swimsuit complete with flippers looked preoccupied and stared out to sea. Barbecued fish with rice and bread. I tucked in with glee. Another man had just filleted a fresh caught fish and minced it in a bowl. He added some chopped onions and chillies to it. To finish off, he squeezed some lime juice into the mix. This dish was the islands version of cervechie. I had wanted to try this dish in Peru but failed. Here, I was presented with an opportunity. It was an acquired taste. Fortunately I love fish and sushi. Pito, perhaps like many young islanders, worked on the mainland. I took leave as the day was nearing midday.  In the near distant, I could see the piercing eyes of the magnificent fifteen moais darkened by the encroaching shadow cast by the brilliantly bright sun. 

28.11.09

Rapa Nui[4], Chile

The alarm rang and I scrambled quickly to turn it off. There were three roommates in the cramped up dorm. No one seemed disturbed. Quietly I sneaked out of the room and hurriedly changed. It was 4.30am. It was dark outside and in the dining hall, Martha and Judith sat smiling. They had a hired car and I decided to join them this morning to travel towards the south-east coast to visit the much publicised  Ahu  Togariki. Just outside Hanga Roa, the road conditions turned for the worse. Martha on the wheel had to be on her wits avoiding the numerous pot holes that became a feature of these coastal roads. It was tricky at this time of the day. We left early just to catch the sunrise. About forty-five minutes on the bumpy coastal road, we reached the site. The day was just breaking into dawn with pale diffused light in the sky. However, it was dark on the ground. I walked through a small gate into a compound demarcated by a meter high stacked stone wall. I slowly walked into the compound over protruding rocks that sometimes moved under my feet and tall grasses laden with moisture. The air was still and chilly. In the eastern end , I could faintly make out statues lined up on a platform. On the left, a high cliff rose above the coast and on the right, the land was flat with shrub like features. In the west, the M-shaped  silhouettes of Rano Raraku rose above the flat ground, completely dark and featureless. As dawn approached, the sky turned magnetic indigo with a burst of reddish hue on the ocean  just above horizon. However, the sky was pregnant with low clouds. The orange burst of the rising sun’s rays spread like wild-fire across the horizon. These lights reflected strongly against the moving thick patches of clouds -  a mixed shade and hues of orange, yellow and pink. These colours  intertwined with the indigo, purple and violet of the sky creating a wonderful and spectacular display of morning light. The sun itself, however, was engulfed in a thick wall  of grey clouds. In the foreground, silhouettes of the fifteen moais of Ahu Tongariki stood tall against the darkening clouds and grey ocean. Although, I stood over a hundred meters away, it was powerful. No features, silent and unmoved, yet these fifteen stone statues lined up against a dramatic landscape stopped me in my tracks to ponder and to acknowledge their presence.  I was drawn into its magic. It was a surreal sight but impressive indeed.  

I walked closer and stopped beside some stone rubble to just to take in the emerging sight. Birds began to mingle around and continued with their chattering. The sun had now risen and emerged as a swirling ball of white light with magnetic fiery colours on its fringes. The blue sky appeared in between to fill up the vast colourful sky. The diffused light shone onto the restored moais revealing their individual features. Only one moai had a scoria topknot. All the majestic moais faced inland towards their mountain birthplace. Their heights varied with one very tall, perhaps 10 meters. The Ahu, longest on the island, was made up of rocks stacked up to a meter high.   I could see a few people, wrapped in warm cloths and huddled together, whom had travelled in the wee hours to capture this moment. Each with their own space to witness and contemplate the sight before them. In the foreground beyond the moais, the ocean glistened mirroring the sky above, like a sheet of glass. As daylight broke , I realised that stone rubble was in fact a single fallen maoi facing skyward. Green blades of grasses and some flowering plants appeared on the levelled ground around me. Towards the north, a sporadically vegetated conical mountain rose high above the ocean in Peninsula Poike. Streaks of sunburst managed to penetrate through the dense clouds and cast a golden-yellow sheen over the peninsula’s barren rolling mountain slopes.  Below its steep cliff, sprays of mist hovered above the crashing ocean waves. Towards the west, over a vast meadow of grasses and green shrubs, Rano Raraku, the birthplace of the enigmatic moais. Now, its rocky serrated steep slopes exposed. As I explored round the stone-walled compound, there were several petroglyphs , including a fish, etched into the rocks lying on the ground.  A young woman in a blue jacket caught my eye. I had noticed her earlier standing nearby. She watched the emerging day in silence, adoring the sight before her. She held a hot water flask and a maté pot, a familiar sight and favourite pastime of Argentinians,  which she sipped occasionally.

Martha, Judith and I decided to leave Ahu Tongariki early and planned to climb up to the summit of the volcanic Maunga Poike in the peninsula. We drove inland. The roads were no longer paved. The landscape looked alien to a tropical island. Volcanic rocks were strewn across the land with hardly any trees. I was pleased to see a clump  of short trees that struggled to survive in this harsh earth. Beyond  the rocky meadow, the mountain slopes were only covered with short grasses. On Peninsula Poike, horses roamed feeding on the grasses laden with morning dew in the cool morning behind fences. This mountain, like Raro Raraku was devoid of trees except a few precious clumps. Strangely, there were no sight of any volcanic rocks anywhere on the rolling hill slopes. It seemed that efforts had been taken to remove these volcanic rocks from the mountain. If so, why? What purpose was this, perhaps a huge exercise, undertaken? We could not find an access to the trail up the mountain. Martha and Judith decided to continue towards Anakena Beach. From there, they would continue to walk along the western coast back to Hanga Roa. It worked out well for me as I had transport to return to Ahu Tongariki and further explore the volcanic crater lake, Rano Raraku. Not long after a scenic drive, we reached  Anakena Beach.  

28.11.09