Buenos Aires [2], Argentina

From Plaza Doreggo, I hailed a taxi and headed to another popular site in Buenos Aires – Caminito in Barrio La Boca. The taxi weaved past narrow streets mostly filled with Sunday shoppers. I was dropped off near the bus and taxi stand across the river Veulta de Roca. On the pedestrian walkway beside the river, there were posters and stores selling all kinds of artifacts. I walked onto the cobbled stone street and my view and sight is immediately engaged with an explosion of colours. All the building was mostly in clad in brightly coloured corrugated iron. There were throngs of people spread around a narrow and confined space on the street. No traffic, only pedestrians were allowed.  A huge sign post with the words Caminito Havana on a double storey building seemed to the focal point for most people as the wandered through the various lanes. The buildings were tastefully designed incorporating balconies with potted plants, old world charm designs, folding windows, street lamp poles and definite loud colours. Together with the people and the café scene, it created a vibrant and lively atmosphere.

While I was absorbed in all these, a beautiful petite girl dressed in a black flowing dress with  gold and silver  sequined top and a black scarf round her fair-skinned neck drew my attention. I fell in love with her immediately. Her infectious smile captivated me. Her pony tail hair swayed around as she moved her head. She was a tango dancer. Her partner, a handsome young man dressed in grey stripped suite, stripped  black and white tie matched with a stripped hat. He had long eyelashes and a silver piercing above his right eyebrow.  She and her partner walked around soliciting people to pose with them and take pictures for a few pesos. Across the pathway, several more couples were doing the same. I politely declined and walked away only to enter the cross roads with Maradona. He was dressed in his famous number 10 blue and white stripped jersey and the familiar short and stout body with curly hair. In reality he was an impersonator, a pretty good one at that. He too posed with people for some pesos in exchange. He had a face of hardship but with a humble smile. I had hardly begun to walk the street and I had already met two of Argentina’s icons, the Tango and Maradona. I enjoyed the café atmosphere  where tables and chairs overflowed onto the cobble stone streets.  As I wandered further along the  street, the familiar tango songs echoed through the street. I came across a handsome couple at a restaurant. She wore a laced black top above her midrib and a black baggy pants which had a slit along the sides complimented with a fiery red heeled shoes. The man wore a white shirt with striped vest and matching pants. The both looked charming and moved with grace performing their delicate kicks and steps of the sultry dance of Tango. I watched a Tango dancer who wore a red dress with a long slit from her heels to the hips exposing her fair skin standing solemnly against a light purple wall. With a white scarf over her shoulders and a black hat in her hands, her eyes squirted against the bright light. I could picture her in black and white from the 1950′s era.

At a nearby building, oil paintings on canvases portraying tango dancers hung on the walls. Paraphernalia of tango were everywhere. Metal pins , miniature match boxes, postcards, fridge magnets and much more. Clothing hung overhead on lines  to deliberately create a daily life scene. It was attractive. Shops were filled to the brim with souvenirs. Tango tunes rings in my ear all day. Restaurants that occupy most of the buildings here make  a good living from visitors dishing out a variety of local fare.  I heard loud sounds like horses trotting .  I looked across the street and saw two men dressed in a gaucho outfits. They word thick buckle belts, baggy pants complemented with wide-brimmed hats.  They danced by pounding the thick heeled black boots firmly onto the floor board with great vigor, poise and stern faced. It was interesting when the two men competed with each other, performing one at a time, trying to out dance the other. The dance culminated with both their steps synchronised. The crowds appreciated this. Did I mention that all this dances are free to watch? However, it was crowded as it was the weekend. I walked around the whole block and covered the few main streets. A train slowly made its way through a narrow path between lines of homes and other buildings. I did not venture far from the main Caminito areas as this was noted a rough neighborhood. Apart from guide books, even the locals advised against it. The buildings looked a little run down however the atmosphere was calm. Back at the common entrance I caught up with Maradona again. His smile was an invitation. I returned the same. I find the Argentinians very friendly and out going. Not just those whom had business in their minds but fellow travelers and locals. They just want to say Hola and see where it took the conversation. I liked that.

A short crew cut guy walked towards me and introduced himself to me. His name is Axle. He was full of confidence, chatty and friendly. He was promoting the restaurant he was working for. He spoke pretty good English. He couldn’t stay too long as his boss might be looking over from afar. We got into a conversation about soccer. He immediately asked if I would like to attend a soccer game that evening as the local team,  Boca Juniors – where the real Maradona played for, were playing at a nearby the famous La Bombonera Staduim. I accepted[80 peso]. We agreed to meet later in the evening. I enquired about how many other “tourists” were being “recruited”. He replied about 15.  I recalled that some of the tenants at the hostel planned to go and bought tickets at the hostel [for 200 peso!] inclusive of some food and transport. This price was a bargain or perhaps a con, I thought! Then I met, Amigo [forgot his name]. When he found out that I spoke Malay, he greeted me in that language. He rattled on greetings in other languages as well to impress me. The friendly and sometimes comical conversation led me to have some confidence in these two. Furthermore, I knew exactly where they both worked. I decided to go with the flow.

22.11.09

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