Rapa Nui [2], Chile

Before I ventured any further, I decided to have my lunch nearby the hostel. I walked along the coast. Here, I could finally feel the power of the mighty Pacific waves that crashed on the black volcanic rocks. With every wave, white water thrusted up into the air ,at times, over five meters and the fine mist drifted inland for a reasonable distance before evaporating. I was mesmerised by these crashing waves both visually and sound. The raw power of the water should not be underestimated. Hardy dracaena plants clinged tightly onto the boulders. I watched with fascination as these waves broke into spectacular aerial displays. It was hypnotic, intoxicating and strangely relaxed. I looked out to the open blue ocean with nothing in sight but the curved horizon. I knew that I was in the most remote inhabited landmass on earth. The nearest being about 3000 km away. Towards the west, the land rose uphill,  barren with sporadic vegetation and few homes. Numerous black outcrops appeared and disappeared off the rocky coast with the ebb and flow of the crashing waves. I continued up the unpaved dirt road with clay dust  churned by passing vehicles on my face. I entered the  small port of Hanga Piko with boats anchored protected by a high rock wall from the torrent ocean waves. Life seemed laid back and a family had gathered nearby. Kids played on the road and drank fizzy drinks. My eye suddenly caught the sight of my first moai – Ahu Raita. I hurriedly walked across the tiny port and stood on a grassy field in front of the stone statue on a stone pedestal, transfixed. The strong midday sun shone directly over its head casting a dark shadow on its face. I stood in awe, my first encounter of the much speculated moais‘ of Easter Island. My body suddenly started to shiver in shock to see the moai move. It was  momentary until I realised that the clouds behind were moving rapidly. In the foreground of the Ahu [platform] lay shiny rounded rocks interspersed and stretched the length of the ahu. This monuments are scared and venturing onto this sites is prohibited. I sat of the grassy field, surrounded by tall trees, for a while. I am finally in the magical  Easter Island. I had dreamt of this moment as a teenager flipping through the pages of the encyclopedias of the world in a dusty corner of the library.

Contended and knowing that this was just the beginning, I headed towards the thatched roof exterior  of Tataku Vave restaurant . It was a delightful place overlooking Hanga Piko and the grassy field nearby. For entertainment, I watched the local kids playing in the dirt and splashing near the wharf – carefree and just being kids. The adults had some serious business going on – feasting of food and drinks, and merry-making, Polynesian style!

Refueled with a delightful seafood dish, I made my way on the same earth coastal road eastward under the scorching afternoon sun towards the only town centre, Hanga Roa.  Walking along the ocean beaten coast, the historic past of this once volcanic island is evident. Layer upon layer of cascading solidified volcanic rocks reveals ancient molten  lava flows. Numerous islets and cave like features populate the vast coastline. Hanga Roa came into view surrounded by low vegetation including coconut palms and tin roofed buildings. Beyond the town, the land ascended to hills and mountains devoid of vegetation. I continued my walk past several seaside restaurants , bars and accommodations and confront another moai – Ahu Tautira overlooking Caleta Hanga Roa, a tiny but pleasant fishing port. The atmosphere in town here was laid back and slow-paced which suited me.  A few vehicles passed on the paved roads. Numerous petroglyphs carved on solid rocks lay exposed to the vagaries of the ocean and weather. Many more created from red volcanic rocks were placed around the length of the coast towards  Tahai Complex. A moai with an  iron rich reddish volcanic rock as a top knot [the hat]. Several more occupied this little area. I continued eastwards and could see one group and two solitary and eventually reached the Tahai Archeoogical Complex. The sun was already tipping towards the west. The whole area was littered with remnants of a civilisation and three moai sites.  In various shapes and form the five moai of Ahu Vai Uri stood proudly facing inland with their backs against the blue ocean. Nearby was the enigmatic, solitary and perhaps the old man of this complex, Ahu Tahai. The face had eroded but there was defiance and authority written all over his tired face. A warrior no doubt.  This moai stood out between Ahu Vai Uri and the next moai, Ahu Ko Te Riku demanding respect and the first to greet anyone into this area. A protector of sorts, I thought. Ko Te Riku moai differed from the other here. It had a top knot and interestingly a set of open eyes that stared into the open. I walked back and forth between all these moais. It dawned on me that all these stone statues showed some kind of emotions on their faces. Their bodies up to their naval and hand on their sides. Their ears, especially viewed from the back, were quite distinctive.  I started to appreciate the different moods of these silent but powerful stone statue. I began to understand why these moais had allured man over time. I started to gather their history and their significance to this remote island and its people’s past that had intrigued man since their “discovery”. More ruins occupied this vast complex.

28.11.09 

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