Rapa Nui [5], Chile

I was excited to see the whole area planted with swaying coconut palms. Through the palm fringed area, I could see seven statue Ahu Nau Nau of which four of them had red scoria headdress or pukao on them. Another two statue with only their torso. Nearby, a  solitary statue, Ahu  Atrue  Huki . This moai had a tiresome face, nearly featureless. Perhaps, this was an earliest creation and its harsh existence  written all over its face. Beyond that, a crescent-shaped empty sandy beach and a wide blue ocean. This site is sheltered by mountains on both its northern and southern flanks. The morning  sun had just risen over the mountains and the stern faces of Ahu Nau Nau moais were revealed. Their features – high noses, protruding chins, navel and abdomen, thin lips, narrow slender fingers on their sides, elongated ears with lobes and deep peering eyes – seemed remarkably refined and well-preserved. Their eye sockets deep, perhaps coral eyes were set in them before. In the surrounding grassy area lay several  other fallen moais and pukaos. Another interesting find was that on their backs, there were geometric designs. I had not seen this in any of the moais before. Another astounding sight was a head of a moai, perhaps a previously fallen one, was used on the back as part of the ahu. A motif of a lizard carved on a stone also decorated this fascinating ahu. Like all the other ahus, no mortar  were used, just stacking of mainly rectangular pieces of rocks. Some of this stone arrangement  had a uncanny resemblance to the Andean stone work of the Incas that I had seen in the surroundings of Cusco and the cloud forests of Machu Pichu. 

What was the reason some of these moais had top knot on their heads?  Did they represent their natural hair colour as suggested by some theorist or simply a mark of respect or a representation of hierarchy. Even the experts are baffled. Anakena beach was believed to the first landing by these ancient settlers. Again, I pondered over the question, like many others, why were these giant stone statues built for or represented. In the ancient world and today, man had seeked spirituality. Mountains, rivers and many natural elements had been worshipped for its sheer presence, magnitude and inexplaination. This followed on by creating “worldly gods” as a tangible physical form of the super natural’s manifestation. The local inhabitants believed and empowered  these moais, in their physical form, to act as a medium to be liked to the gods, spiritual world and ancestors. Once given life or mana, in this instance, by placing the coral eyes, the stone statues are awakened and became a “living form”.   A connection to the past, present and the future. All living religions worship the scriptures of the past, today, for a better future and after life. Driven by faith, there is a will for man  to immerse and achieve  spectacular things – in this instance, carve out with basic tools gigantic stone statues. A God; Protector; Spirit; Guardian;  Intermediaries to connect to the after life or ancestors; Worship; Demarcators of territory; Resting place for the dead spirits prior to moving on and so on. However, for the untrained, its is just a stone, a tuff volcanic stone. It can be politicised  and reigned control and weld’s Power. It can mean and represent virtually anything to the known and believer. Why do they have many connotations or inferences? The reason I believe is -  it is man whom empowered these statues. Therefore, it is man who can change its representation , perception and eventually its destiny. This is perhaps why, over time, with decline in faith and believe, other issues surfaced;  power struggle and tribal warfare; mere survival resulting from over population and lack of resources particularly food. This eventually had led to the demise of these magnificent moai culture as they lost their significance in society.

A rainbow suddenly  appeared just over the treeless mountains towards the north. There was no rain. The precipitation of moisture from the land’s  morning dew vaporised by the sun’s morning rays had created this wonderful and miracle like atmosphere. It was indeed a pleasant surprise. This further added the mystical appeal of the mysterious giant volcanic stone statues here. The four stone  statues looked regal with their cylindrical rusty-red headdress. Above the gently swaying coconut palms, a bird, perched on the palm fronds, keenly surveyed the land below.  I tore myself away from this beautiful and remote tropical paradise and headed inland once again. I turned around for one last look, the seven moais looked dwarfed by the nearby tall palm trees. The clay earth roads were in good condition and soon I found myself back along the north-eastern coast. The landscape was surreal, filled with boulders of volcanic rocks. The uneven calcified lava formed rocky coastline was battered by the Pacific Ocean waves. Some black volcanic rocks protruded out into the sea became visible with the ebb and flow of the waves. I drove off the main roads and onto an impromptu road lanes along the water front. Remnants of old structures littered the long stretch of the coastline. There was huge fallen moai with its head facing the ground. Nearby, a collection of stacked stones resembling old dwelling amongst other things. On one stretch of the long coastline, I met Toni and his wife, both local residents, having a day off from work. I took out my map and tried to locate Ahu Te Pito Kura and the Navel of the World rocks on the coast. I continued my journey and came to sign posted site of Papa Vaka. This site is a massive basaltic rock with several petroglyphs are carved. One site was called Papa Mangai. here there were several fish hooks (mangai) of varying sizes and design. A curious but extraordinary feature was mythological like marine creatures that resembled crabs and octopus. Amongst it, two vaka or canoes. On another site, Papa Mango, were two distinctive fish designs namely kahi (tuna) and mango (shark). The lines were faint. Some of the lines had vanished with its exposure o the environment over time. As I drove away from the coast, I realised that I had missed both the gaint Ahu Te Pito Kura and the mythical Navel of the World. I was disappointed for being not mindful and resigned to the fact that I had missed an important site. This would have been my second experience to witness the navel of the world. My first was at remote Mt. Kailas in Central Tibet.  Interestingly, both these sites are remote and hard to get to. Perhaps befitting their status. However, in my mind , was that moai with its face down on the ground  Ahu Te Pito Kura?

I retraced my path back towards Ahu Togariki.  As I approached, I could see the treeless crater mountain, Rano Raraku, rise out like a monolith from the green flatlands. I could now appreciate the full sight of the mountain in the late morning light. About a kilometer away from Ahu Tongariki, I stopped and walked along the coast. A few men had gathered around. I headed in their direction. Pito and his friends were feasting on freshly caught fish on an open barbecue. The friendly nature of the easter islanders prevailed and I was invited to join in. One man, who wore a swimsuit complete with flippers looked preoccupied and stared out to sea. Barbecued fish with rice and bread. I tucked in with glee. Another man had just filleted a fresh caught fish and minced it in a bowl. He added some chopped onions and chillies to it. To finish off, he squeezed some lime juice into the mix. This dish was the islands version of cervechie. I had wanted to try this dish in Peru but failed. Here, I was presented with an opportunity. It was an acquired taste. Fortunately I love fish and sushi. Pito, perhaps like many young islanders, worked on the mainland. I took leave as the day was nearing midday.  In the near distant, I could see the piercing eyes of the magnificent fifteen moais darkened by the encroaching shadow cast by the brilliantly bright sun. 

28.11.09

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