Rapa Nui[7], Chile

Back on the dusty earth roads, I headed back towards the coast to get another look at the majestic Ahu Tongariki.  The appearance of the landscape changed continuously with the  time and light of the day. Its dramatic location beneath the towering  Poike  Peninsula, with a backdrop of the busy and vast electric blue Pacific Ocean and unassuming Rano  Raraku  in the foreground  was not only spectacular  but also made a powerful statement. This is a spiritually charged power place. I can imagine how the early travellers arriving by ships would have reacted on sighting this panoramic view.

I drove along the rocky east coast punctuated with inlets and coves battered by the torrent Pacific Ocean. Sprays of water drifted inland as the ocean waves hit the shore. Dramatic aerial display of water was a constant companion along this dirt road. As much as possible, I kept close to the coastline on dirt roads. These are where numerous ruins of moais that laid toppled from their high stone pedestal , broken and undignified. Some of the statues had become one with the surrounding volcanic rocks, indistinguishable and inconspicuous. This is the road of the moais. I came to one, Ahu Akahanga. The moais laid with their faces into the ground where they once stood proudly.  At another significient site, Ahu Hanga Tee, a group off eight moais with the heads pointed towards the sea and faces buried into the ground. A few rounded scoria hats were scattered nearby.  I cannot help but wonder and imagine the hay days and the downfall of this moai worship culture. Even the ahu is slowly turning into rubble of black volcanic rocks. I can understand the destruction of these magnificent stone statues by warring factions. The symbolic death of the spirit or mana of the opposing tribes. Over time, without intervention from man, I believe the moais of this island would have become one with the land they originated and return to sea to be buried for eternity. There is no shade on this track of roads. A few plots of land were fenced with horses roaming about. The sea breeze brought much-needed cooling from the blazing afternoon sun. I drove all the way back to Hanga Roa. I tried to locate Ahu Vinapu, near Mataveri Airport but had taken a wrong turn which headed back to town. A man dressed in his finest wearing a cowboy hat complete with spurs on his boots rode his horse as I drove past him. He was elegant and the horse regal. Horses are a common mode of transportation on the island. I had seen a few wandering down the main roads in Hanga Roa like in a western movie. I was exhausted from the heat of the long but satisfying day.

At the hostel, I was surprised to see Ophelie, a French girl I had met at Puerto Natales. This was a pleasant surprise and now there are, including myself, four of us from the same hostel in Puerto Natales. How is that for coincidence. That late afternoon, I decided just to catch up on some rest and wandered off to the airy common room at the hostel. The cool sea breeze blew through the building that brought respite from the blistering late afternoon sun. The sound of the ocean waves pounding onto the coast added a real relaxed feel to the lazy atmosphere.  Not long, the two smiling girls, Judith and Marta, strolled into the hall. I was keen to find out about their walking adventure of about five hours from Anakena Beach to Hanga Roa along the western coast.

We decided to head back to the Tahai complex to experience the sunset once again. There was not much else to do anyway. Today, there were less clouds, at least for now, and the day was brighter. A woman, with an array of artifacts and island mementos displayed on a piece  of cloth, stood patiently for potential buyers. The sunlight reflected strongly off some of the metallic items. A ball of white light descended towards the horizon. A long golden shimmering light stretched across the sea like a chord , a conduit, which connected the heavenly realm to the mystical earthly realm. Was this a part of the early inhabitant’s  culture – intertwined with the celestial movements of the stars, moon and the sun. Perhaps the statues, located round the island, acted as points of contact, measurements and calculations. These information were later used to decide planting seasons, sailing voyages and all other cultural activities. Perhaps, being isolated from the rest of the world, this island was in fact axis mundi, the Navel of the Earth. Sitting admits this wonderful site, majestic monolith stone sculptures, surrounded by an ambient environment, knowing the geographic location, I can easily belief this ideology. Myths remained myths for the uncultured and uninformed. One should think outside the mind and body – belief, faith, culture and generations of indoctrination have far inner implications and experiences. This was portrayed by this  idol worshipping by the ancient Rapa Nuians. Were the moais arranged in a precise manner, aligned to the stars and planetary movements. Was there a link to the other famous South American ancient cities – Cusco, Machu Pichu, Aztecs , Mayan temples or even broader to the pyramids, Babylon and Sumeria to name a few. For now, they still remained as myths and mysteries.

Dark clouds began to etch in boldly over the horizon. Streaks of sun rays penetrated through the dense blanket of clouds. This lit up the dusk sky. If I let my imagination run wide, I could almost see angels sliding down the long soft stream of light to take a dip in the ocean. High above in the sky, there was a riot of colours; indigo, violet, orange, yellow and more. The full spectrum of the sun’s magic was on display. The dark ocean’s surface gleamed like a mirror. The moais in the foreground became sillouted and darkened. Although in a shadow, they still had an all-encompassing feature. It was a very dramatic and captivating sight. Just as I was  departing  from the site, the bright glow of the moon shone high above my head. It had just appeared as the fast-moving dark clouds parted. Perhaps, I had not taken much notice earlier as I was preoccupied watching the sunset. My thoughts of the moais with celestial connection and significance was verified, of sorts. The moon had followed the path of the sun. Now the sun had vanished below the horizon leaving only a constricted fiery glow over the edge of earth. I could hear whispers and footsteps fading around me. The moon played hide and seek with the dark and fast roaming clouds. A welcoming tropical thunderstorm was in the making.

29.11.09

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