Rapa Nui [9], Chile

Ahu Akivi had a magnetic and mesmerizing appeal especially when golden radiant light reflected off from each of the seven moai by the tilting late sun. We drove further inland and the roads start to deteriorate. Fortunately, the 4 wheel drive vehicle was invaluable. The slow drive gave me time to appreciate the near barren rolling hills. Several home had small cultivated farms. Rows of vegetables and other edibles were neatly planted and tended. Some of these homesteads had fences to protect their crops. There were barely any fruit trees.  The vehicle came to a halt in front of a barren but green hill, Puna Pau. Wild horses roamed freely foraging on the meager grasses at foothill. From hereon  it was a slow but easy walk uphill to extinct crater cone. The green hill slopes was dominated by huge scoria like cylindrical shaped boulders. This is the source or quarry from which the top hats or Pukao were made. The rust coloured rocks were not identical in sizes nor form but all had only one purpose – to be adorned on the heads of the free-standing moais. Some had slits on them, perhaps to facilitate anchor onto the heads. On my journey round the island, only a few had a top knot  on. I wondered if all had them on before their destruction. If they had, there were little or no evidence around. Perhaps they had been washed into the sea. The views from the hill-top was magnificent and gave another perspective of the island’s rugged western coast  looking out to the deep blue sea. Corrugated iron rooftop houses were scattered around the lowlands choked with thick vegetation.  Across the hills, treeless Mount Taraveka, the highest on the island. Beyond that, the deep blue Pacific  Ocean and a rather overcast sky. This was a pleasant sight. Quite, isolated, lush greenery and a sense of well-being as most parts of the island I had ventured were bare.

A short drive through uneven dirt road was a cave system used by the tribes as shelter and safety. It looked just ordinary from the road and a small vegetated area with which undergrowth. A short walk led to an underground cave, Ana Te Pahu. I descended into a sunken garden planted with bananas and a few varieties of probably edible plants. Beyond the garden was a narrow cave that meandered into darkness. I walked along a stoney path avoiding boulders. Filtered water dripped from the ceiling that created a wet and damp floor. As I went deeper, the height diminished and the light from my torch was the only source of light. I was unable to see beyond. There seemed to be air vents and cavities for storage or dwellings. However, it looked as if unattended.  

On the back earth roads, we made our way towards Tahai Complex. Turns, twist and muddy experience resembled a 4 wheel drive rally. However, there were no dust trails behind the vehicle. The weather had deteriorated and the sky became pregnant with storm clouds with potential to rain. I looked forward to it as the weather was getting too tropical hot and balmy. I headed back to the hostel. It was good to, sort of, slow down instead of moving from one place to another, although leisurely,  constantly. Even in Easter Island’s  snail’s pace. I wandered around Hanga Roa walking the streets and checking out the local supermarkets and handicrafts shops. Prices of sundries are understandably expensive but trying to bring these from the mainland to save a few dollars, is nearing absurdity. Unless you are a hardcore, of course. At the hostel, I prepared to have my dinner out. The girls were already preparing their dinner. Martha, the middle-aged hostel owner, called  out to me and invited me to a small barbecue just next to the hostel. Smoke bellowed from the raging fire with pieces of fish cooked on a wire mesh. There were  plenty off salad and bread spread on the adjacent table. More fresh fish were inside a bucket next t the fire. I immediately accepted the offer. A few others joined in. I relished the dishes especially the smoky hot fish burger that I had made and the pleasant company. With a cold breeze blowing through my hair and a warm fire nearby, stomach filled, I was totally satisfied.  Afterwards, I sat alone and pondered over my day’s journey and adventure. Rapa Nui is not only fascinating for its giant stone statues and isolated and magical location but also the ease at which I could stand and feel these man-made monument without any apparent barriers. This whole island is truly an open air museum. There were no fixed paths to follow, one can get close and personal with the museum pieces and the ease of moving from place to place, either by vehicle or foot. This design of close one-one exposure had enhanced this unique contact into a lifetime experience.   

Advertisement