My last day on Easter Island and also my last day of my enlightening journey through South America. I had left this day to explore the little township of Hanga Roa. My first stop was the daily market. I walked into the building and was surprised to see a three-in-one. A wet market selling mostly imported and fresh vegetables. In the centre a small eatery and on the opposite end and thriving local craft market. I noticed one-off the local dish, a sopophilla, a traditional Mapuche fried flat bread sweetened with sugar. The atmosphere here was relaxed like most parts of local island life. I enjoyed seeing families with kids in tow haggling over prices of the fresh produce, the cling-clang of pots and coffee cups at the small but cheery eatery and Rapa Nuian song resonated from the craft shops. In the craft market, a huge array of artifacts and local craft were on display. This included items with feathers, wood carvings from ash trays to boat paddles, beads and shell ornaments, hand-made tapa mats made from plant fibres, printed fabrics with local motifs and the islands biggest spectacle, the Moai, carved in wood and stone. An interesting find was the demonstration of the Kai Kai - the inter twined string that told the stories of the ancient Rapa Nuian culture accompanied with vocal songs.
On the main road, a couple , beside a parked pick up truck sold purple tapioca like tubers, white carrots and avocados together with corals. I wondered where these corals originated from as the island’s surroundings did not support this types of life. On the street sidewalk, three stylishly dressed ladies sat comfortably around a table outside a bar decorated with banana plants and ferns. A huge white poster hung behind them that accentuated their relaxed demeanor. Casual dressing is a norm here. Town life is laid back and I enjoyed just jay walking . Occasionally a car would pass by or have a nervous wait for a dog to pass. Soon I made my way to the Iglesia Hanga Roa [church]. The exterior was landscaped with calatheas, climbing allamandas, fuchsias, creepers, philodendron and the ground covered in ferns and grasses. A stone carving of a head and torso of a man sat on a block of stone against the wall. This was not a moai. Above the rows of pews, light shone brilliantly through stained glass. The motifs were interesting – a volcano with lava pouring out and dark clouds hung above; a fish, perhaps a whale holding a bowl of brown ball that resembles coconuts and on the opposite wall, floral and a bird motifs. It was interesting to see that the people of Rapa Nui had not severed from their ancient history. A sort of animism intertwined with the new religion, Christianity. The evidence, a carved wooden statue of a bird man resembling Christ on the cross. This phenomenon is quite common in South America particularly is remote regions of the Andean range.
It was a carnival of moai culture inside the Mercado Artesanal. All kind of souvenirs possible was either hanging on the shelves or on the wooden board that packed each shop to its brim. Wood and stone carving of moais, hats, T-shirts, tapa clothes and much more. The prices here seemed at little steep compared to the Feria Muncipal. I have a soft spot for wooden items and I exercised extreme restraint from purchasing one. There were a few books on display with the native Rongorongo pictorial writings. These “writings” were originally found on wooden objects with some sort of inscriptions. This was the now extinct language of the ancient Rapa Nui ancestors. Today, efforts are undergoing to attempt to decipher these, although only a few, with the hope to reveal the secrets into the islander’s past lives. There is no living native that speak this language anymore. I bought a cap with these unique writings embroidered on it as a reminder of this lost language. The shop keeper explained these Rongorongo glyphs – frigate bird [birdman], fish, Makemake [the creator god]and few others.
Later in the afternoon, I decided to go on a horse ride [20000 peso] up Maunga Terevaka, the highest point on the island together with Martha, Judith and Ophelie. I was nervous when I agreed to participate in this activity. I had not rode a horse before while the others had some experience. we organised it through Martha at the hostel. We were picked up at the hostel and driven to the east coast close to Ahu Akahanga. I had my first look at the horses inside a make shift coral. The sun shone brightly and was to a point of cooking my skin. Our guide, …………….., sized me up and after knowing my inexperience, decide to give me the safest horse. I hoped onto the saddle, readjusted the straps and buckled my shoe into the thick wooden stirrup. Now, my thoughts migrated from nervous to panic rapidly but strangely excited of the prospect of my first horse ride. I spoke to myself to relax and be calm as I started to ride. It started with a gentle walk and soon became a wretches trot. My whole body shook up and down and my buttocks struggled to stay within the shiny saddle. I gripped the reins even tighter in my hands. Occasionally, ……………, would give my horse a slap urging it to move quicker. I did not like that at all. I tried to straighten my legs to raise my buttock above the saddle. It was in vain as the straps were too long. After a while I became used to this motion. At one point, I nearly fell off my horse as the saddle became loose from all that jiggling motion. Finally,…………, put me at ease by tightening all the straps and ropes. It did help a little. The ride took me into the interior of the island. However, like most part of the island, the land was undulating , nearly treeless but green. There were no traffic as there were no roads. The climb uphill was gentle as well. It all seemed fine until………. decided to make me a cabalido, a local cowboy. He came along side and gave a whack on the rump of the horse. It immediately took off uphill from a trot into a gallop. It was exhilarating and I loved the speed and the enthusiasm shown by the horse. An excitement that hatched purely out of inexperience and recklessness. There was no fear. I did not want it to stop. Some distant later, my horse gradually resumed its normal routine, a trot. After riding along some narrow ledges and grassy fields, I reached to top of Muanga Terevaka. The views from top was stunning and I was in awe. For the first time in my life, firmly on terra firma [land] , I witnessed the 360 degrees curvature of the blue earth. I was in Utopia. Beyond the jagged shores and white water, the vast expanse of the beautiful deep azure blue ocean stretched endlessly.The blue sky, equally handsome, gave me the impression that I was locked in a blue bubble. Beyond this euphoric experience, the new frontier that awaited for me was outer space.
Reluctantly,I made my way down the mountain and back towards the coast, to the starting point. My fears of pain as a result of this adventure began to set in. I was hopeful it would not be detrimental. My horse , now looking sedate finally was free to roam at leisure. I could almost see relief in its eyes. Amature riders! Thereafter, I was treated to a fish barbecue by the horse’s owners. It was a nice way to finish off a wonderful experience. Now that the fun was over, I awaited unenthusiastically for the pain to set in. To my surprise, there was none. I had the whole evening to relax and wait for my departure in the late evening. I was a little nervous when I was informed that the flight was delayed. The departure time had passed and I was still at the hostel. Martha and her husband were unassuming and informed me that someone at the airport will confirm later. We received the call. After some hugs and kisses I bid farewell to Ophelie, Martha and Judith. Their company made my journey to this remote and mystical island more colourful. My flight path took me deeper into the Pacific to French Polynesia and concluded in Aotearoa, the land of the long white cloud, the land I now call home.
In contrast to my arrival to this remote island at sunrise, I left in darkness. Looking back, the inferences fell appropriately ; sunrise - discovery, new beginnings and enthusiasm and sunset - darkness of unanswered questions and mystery of the unknown. Within seconds, this tiny island had vanished from my sight as the aircraft sped higher towards the starry sky. I began to recount the arduous but stupendous journey I had undertaken; the endurance through snow; finding myself in ice and biting cold southern winds; the magical sights of the natural and man made wonders; the colourful cultures of the people living under the shadow of the mighty Andes and the watchful eye of the condor; the unmistakable music and dances; the uninhibited smiles and spontaneous laughter of the people; the heritage of colonial architecture of the old cities; the vibrant and pleasantly chaotic market places and much more. All these had culminated into a richly rewarding and made this epic journey very spiritual, engrained an under-standing of humility, respect for the environment, culture and elements of nature. This journey had not only enriched and broadened my life’s scope, but also had deeply seeded into me the joys of travel, walking and simply being alive. At times just to be a child again. To be free, especially when I am walking, like a condor gliding effortlessly over terrain so immense, so diverse and so beautiful. Now, alas, I longed to be reunited with my family at home, to tell the unending discoveries, tales and stories of my journey that was inspired and began in the Andes.
This is not the end of my journey but a beginning of another. Just go and go now to see the beyond………
2.12.09
Filed under: Chile, South America, Travel Tagged: | Hanga Roa, Maunga Terevaka
